We travelled from Switzerland to Italy on the Bernina Express with four children aged 7, 11, 13 and 17, taking one of Europe's most famous train journeys from Chur to Tirano before continuing on to Lake Como and Milan.
In this guide I'll share exactly how we planned the trip, what the journey was really like with children, where we stayed, how much it cost and whether I think the Bernina Express is worth it for families.
If you're looking for practical advice rather than just train facts, you're in the right place.
Our route took us from Zurich Airport to Chur, across the Swiss Alps on the Bernina Express, before crossing into Italy and spending time on Lake Como and Milan.
For us, it was one of those trips that felt adventurous without being stressful. The scenery was incredible, the logistics were surprisingly simple and even the kids spent most of the journey glued to the windows.
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This guide focuses on our personal experience travelling with children.
If you're still deciding which tickets to buy, whether to book the panoramic train or how to plan your route, start with these guides first:
➡️ Complete Bernina Express Guide
Day 1
Fly to Zurich and travel to Chur
Day 2
Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano then onwards to Lake Como
Day 3
Explore Lake Como and Varenna
Day 4
Travel to Milan
Day 5
Fly home
To keep costs down, we flew from Dublin rather than directly from the UK and spent a night there before our flight to Zurich.
We travelled during February half term and booked around six weeks before departure.
Including that overnight stay, flights, accommodation, trains and Bernina Express reservations, the total cost came to approximately £389 per person.
For Switzerland during February half term, we thought this represented excellent value.
In our opinion, yes.
Before the trip I was convinced someone would get bored halfway through.
It never happened.
The scenery changes constantly throughout the journey. One minute you're travelling through forests and mountain villages, the next you're crossing dramatic viaducts, passing frozen lakes or winding through snowy mountain landscapes.
It doesn't feel like sitting on a train for over four hours.
It feels more like watching a film unfold outside the window.
Our children were aged 7, 11, 13 and 17 and all four enjoyed the experience.
That probably tells you more than anything else I could write.
One of the things that surprised us when planning our trip was how generous Switzerland is when it comes to children's rail travel.
Children under 6 usually travel free on the Bernina Express route, while children aged 6 to 16 benefit from discounted fares. Families using a Swiss Travel Pass may also find additional savings available through Switzerland's family travel schemes.
It's important to remember that even if your child qualifies for free or discounted travel, a seat reservation is still required when travelling in the panoramic Bernina Express carriages.
As prices can change from year to year, I always recommend checking the latest fares when booking.
For a family of six, the costs do add up, but compared to many family attractions, we felt the experience offered excellent value for money and remains one of our most memorable family trips.
Under 5s
The journey is certainly possible with younger children, although you'll need plenty of snacks and entertainment.
The large panoramic windows help keep little ones interested.
Ages 5-10
This is probably the ideal age.
The tunnels, bridges and constantly changing scenery make it feel like a real adventure.
Our youngest child was seven and absolutely loved it.
Ages 11-15
This age group tends to appreciate the scenery more than you might expect.
There are plenty of opportunities for photos and videos which kept our older children interested throughout.
Teenagers
Our eldest was 17 and enjoyed it just as much as everyone else.
The scenery really is that impressive.
We deliberately combined Switzerland and Italy in the same trip.
Switzerland is beautiful, but accommodation can be expensive for larger families.
Italy offered much better value and allowed us to extend the holiday without stretching the budget too far.
Our route looked like this:
Looking back, I still think this is one of the easiest ways for families to experience the Bernina Express.
You get the spectacular Swiss scenery while also enjoying a few days in Italy where accommodation and food are generally more affordable.
One thing that surprised a lot of people when I shared this trip was that we didn't fly directly to Switzerland.
We actually flew from Manchester to Dublin, spent 24 hours there and then continued to Zurich the following day.
At the time it was cheaper for our family of six to include an overnight stay in Dublin than fly directly from Manchester to Zurich.
It also gave us the opportunity to explore another city along the way.
Sometimes it's worth checking unusual flight combinations when travelling as a larger family.
One of the reasons I often recommend Switzerland for train travel is because the transport system is incredibly easy to use.
Zurich Airport station is located directly beneath the terminal.
After landing we simply:
The journey takes around 1 hour 35 minutes.
We didn't pre-book tickets because I prefer flexibility when travelling with children.
The journey itself was surprisingly scenic and served as a great introduction to Switzerland before the main event the following day.
Finding accommodation for a family of six in Switzerland can be challenging.
Family rooms are limited and prices can be high, particularly during school holidays.
We stayed at Central Hotel Post Chur and booked two triple rooms.
For a one-night stop it worked perfectly.
What we liked:
Absolutely.
Many people treat Chur purely as a starting point for the Bernina Express, but it's actually Switzerland's oldest town.
The Old Town is compact, attractive and easy to explore on foot.
The following morning we headed to Chur station and boarded the panoramic Bernina Express.
We booked second-class panoramic seats and found them more than comfortable enough.
To travel in the panoramic carriages you generally need:
For detailed reservation costs, seat choices and booking instructions, see our Complete Bernina Express Guide.
If budget allowed, I would probably add a second night here next time.
This was the part of the trip I was most curious about.
Would the children get bored?
Would four hours feel too long?
Would we spend the entire journey trying to entertain everyone?
The answer was no.
Our favourite sections included:
The transition between Switzerland and Italy is one of the most fascinating parts of the journey.
Within a few hours you're travelling from snowy alpine scenery to palm trees and Italian towns.
The panoramic carriages are spacious and comfortable.
We received a commemorative Bernina Express Lindt tin filled with chocolates, which the children loved.
There was also a complimentary cold tea drink which, if I'm being honest, none of us particularly enjoyed.
The train has toilets and luggage storage areas, making it straightforward for families.
We packed:
In reality, the scenery provided most of the entertainment.
We arrived in Tirano around lunchtime.
Although we continued straight to Lake Como, I would definitely spend more time here if we repeated the trip.
The historic centre looks beautiful and there are plenty of cafés and restaurants nearby.
The connection onwards to Italy is incredibly simple.
The regional station sits directly opposite the Bernina Express station, making transfers easy even with children and luggage.
I think so.
If you're not rushing onwards, I'd allow at least a few hours to explore.
Next time I'd probably stop for lunch before continuing to Lake Como.
It feels like a destination that deserves more than a quick station change.
Rather than staying in Tirano, we based ourselves in Bellano on Lake Como.
We chose Bellano because it was:
For families, it offered much better value than Varenna while still providing easy access to the rest of Lake Como.
During our stay we took the short train journey to Varenna.
Even in February it was beautiful.
The colourful waterfront, lakeside walks and relaxed atmosphere made it one of our favourite stops on the trip.
If you're extending your Bernina Express journey, I wouldn't skip it.
After two nights on Lake Como we travelled to Milan for one final night before flying home.
One night felt about right for us.
It gave us time to explore the city centre, enjoy the atmosphere and experience Carnevale Ambrosiano, which happened to be taking place during our visit.
It also provided a convenient base for our flight home the next morning.
If we repeated this trip, I would:
But overall, this remains one of our favourite family trips.
It combined Switzerland, Italy, spectacular scenery and easy train travel without ever feeling stressful.
For families looking for a memorable rail adventure, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
Is the Bernina Express suitable for children?
Yes. We travelled with children aged 7, 11, 13 and 17 and all enjoyed the journey.
Do children need a ticket for the Bernina Express?
Children under 6 travel free, while children aged 6 to 16 receive discounted fares. If you're using a Swiss Travel Pass, children may be able to travel free with a Swiss Family Card. Seat reservations are still required in the panoramic carriages.
Does the journey feel long?
Not really. The scenery changes constantly and there is always something to look at.
Are there toilets onboard?
Yes.
Can you take a pushchair?
Yes, although a compact folding pushchair will make life easier.
Is February a good time to travel?
Absolutely. We loved seeing the snow-covered landscapes and frozen lakes.
Is the Bernina Express worth the money?
For us, yes. It remains one of the most memorable train journeys we've ever taken.
You may also find these guides useful:
➡️ Complete Bernina Express Guide
➡️ Bernina Express vs Regional Train
➡️ Bernina Express Itinerary: Switzerland to Italy
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